Quality Entrance and Interior Doors.
Front Range Lumber Company is your headquarters for entrance and interior doors that will add beauty and lasting value to your home. Choose from hundreds of styles and colors to complement your exterior and interior decor.
Plus, we have a full selection of hardware, locksets, options and accessories that help you complete the look you’ve always dreamed of for your home.
The entrance to your home is one of the first things your guests experience. A beautiful front door welcomes visitors, and adds to the value of your home. New interior doors are a great way to transform your rooms without expensive remodeling. Let our experts show you all the possibilities for your budget. Plus, we can help you with machining and matching the new door so it will fit the old jamb with a minimum of effort.
New Doors, New Frames/Jambs
We can prehang virtually any door, in any frame to your specifications, including:
- Non-standard door sizes
- Non-standard jamb/frame/wall thicknesses
- Mixed units (i.e. oak door in a paint grade frame)
- Special design doors
- Double units, sidelites, door lights, transoms
- Dutch door and other special door units
- Think about using a full or half louvre style door in places to get better air circulation or to minimize hot or cool spots. For example, use one on a utility room door to vent heat from your furnace or washer/dryer into the house more smoothly.
- When switching doors, think about also switching the way the new door swings. In some cases, a different swing direction may work better for you based on how you use the room, furniture placement and so on.
- A conventional swing door will provide the widest access to any door opening. Consider switching old style bypass or bi-fold doors to gain access to your whole closet.
- Something as simple as changing the style of a door can dramatically freshen up a room or entire home.
- Use special purpose doors like a frosted glass door in an area where you want some element of privacy with the capability to allow light into the room from adjacent areas.
- Try a “special” frosted doors for pantries, laundry areas, wine storage and more. They add special appeal to those rooms while providing some privacy and “hiding the mess” features.
There are many types and styles of doors available. The four main material categories used are:
- Pre-primed hardboard
All are available in a wide variety of sizes and in the case of wood, many species. Ask us for catalogs or consult one of our salespeople for more information.
Pocket doors can be an excellent alternative to a regular swinging door. For rooms like bathrooms, closets, and hallway areas, a swinging door may take up too much area to open and close. A pocket door slides into a recess in the wall, allow full use of the wall space on both side on the door. Special pocket door hardware is available for latching and privacy (for bathroom) styles. The hardware is available in all normal finishes to match other hardware used in your home. Premade pocket frames are readily available; we suggest the use of these as opposed to attempting to construct your own. After installation, drywall is put over the cage just as on a normal stud wall. We strongly recommend the use of at least a “heavy-duty” gauge of track and rollers regardless of the door type used. This hardware is beefier and stands up to use far better than “standard” track and hardware. Pocket frames also come in a box – this version requires much more assembly on the job.
Pocket doors normally require a rough opening of double the door width plus 2” and 7’0” in height.
The “rough” opening or framing hole left to accommodate a prehung wood, steel or fiberglass door should be the raw door size PLUS:
- On interior units: 2” in width, 2” in height
- On double interior units: 2-1/2” in width, 2” in height
- On Exterior units: 2” in width, up to 3” in height
- ALL should be verified before construction**.
Doors incur many of the mistakes in ordering any product we handle. It is easy to mis-oder doors – it’s all in the details. The mistakes typically fall into two categories: sizes and handing (swing).
Sizing: Most errors here occur through mistaking inches vs. feet vs. slang. For example a 2-0 door is a 24” or 2’ door. The MOST common mistake is the size 2-4, which should be a 2’4” door or 28”, but that commonly customers will be thinking 24” only. The best way to avoid any issue here is to identify the door size in inches.
Handing: Doors generally swing INTO the room. When it comes to outswinging doors, a picture is worth a thousand words. See the Door Handing Chart in the Downloads section on this page.
- After installing any new door, be sure to seal ALL surfaces – this includes the two side edges, top and bottom. Not totally sealing a door may create issues which will not be covered under warranty.
- On prehung units, the key is to install the unit perfectly level and plumb – both the door and the frame.
Refer to the individual manufacturer’s information regarding warranty details. There is probably no other category in the construction area where more corners can be cut and the price changes accordingly. This translates into that you get exactly what you pay for.
Moulding can be milled from virtually any wood type. However, to be more economical and for quicker availability, moulding is generally only readily available in stock in red oak, solid pine, medium density fiberboard (MDF, a very dense particle board), and finger joint pine that has been primed. MDF is a good option due to its low cost and, since it is man-made, there is no risk of warping twisting or splitting.
Solid mouldings are most commonly available in pine but can be ordered in many hardwoods (some of the solid hardwood moldings may be a veneer face). In order to get the best possible finish, it is recommended that you sand first with 220 grit sandpaper. If staining, we recommend after sanding to apply a prestain conditioner or a sanding sealer; this will prevent the wood from absorbing too much stain too fast which leads to the grain being raised or the wood taking the stain in blotches. Next, apply a clear sealer; this will help your molding last for years to come. Remember to apply as directed, generally three coats are best. Each succeeding coat adds protection and depth to the appearance.
Finger joint pine is a good balance of low cost, widespread availability in different patterns, an stability. Most finger joint molding is now primed. Therefore, all you need to do is paint with your choice of paint – two coats is best. Similarly, MDF comes with a primer coat already on it, so all you have to do to finish your project is apply a paint of your choosing. Please note: MDF doesn’t handle getting wet very well, so it is not recommended for kitchens or bathrooms.
Refer to the Downloads section below to view most readily available moulding profiles (patterns). It also details the sizes and wood types available.